L15-6-671 GIN Turbo

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You will proceed to remove the OEM Turbocharger from the vehicle in the coming steps

The next steps will be performed underneath the vehicle. Please make sure vehicle is secured on a lift or jack stands

Use a 5.5mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to remove the two (2) clamps (red markups) securing the accordion style intake air tube

Remove intake air tube from car and set aside

Remove two (2) screws from Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP) EVAP valve with T30 Torx Bit

Pop both EVAP lines from clip

Tuck EVAP valve out of the way as shown (blue box)

Use 10mm socket and ratchet to remove bolt from TIP bracket near inlet

Pull up on reservoir to free from bracket and relocate as shown

Use 10mm socket and ratchet to remove two (2) bolts from vacuum bracket

Use 10mm socket and ratchet to remove two (2) bolts from wiring loom

Unplug waste gate actuator by pushing the very top of the clip in with one finger and pulling the plug out with the other hand

Set wiring loom out of the way

Use pliers to slide the two (2) hose clamps up the rubber hose

Twist each hose to break adhesion to metal tube then and pull both hoses off

Use hose pliers if you have them, it's easier

Use caution to avoid tearing rubber but it can take some force to free hoses

Set hoses out of the way

Use caution not to bend or damage A/C line while removing TIP

Be careful not to damage A/C line

Remove bolt with 12mm socket, 3" extension, and ratchet

Remove nut with 12mm socket, 3" extension, and ratchet

OE Turbo Inlet Pipe will wiggle freely now

Unfortunately Honda used a single use hose clamps for the turbo inlet pipe. These are difficult to remove

Use caution not to damage rubber lines. This is tricky

You can use a grinder, Dremel, or perhaps even shears to remove this single use clamp. We prefer Dremel

Remove Clamp Shown

Partially cut through band of clamp. The idea is to remove enough material that the clamp will break

Place flat head screwdriver under cut. If cut enough band will break pretty easily with a bit of pressure

Pop crank breather hose off Image 1

Use caution as you proceed to minimize coolant leaks

Pinch off coolant line in a manner similar to what is shown

There are various other tools and ways to accomplish this, like pinch pliers

Put towel under coolant line to catch leak

Use pliers to slide clamp out of the way as shown

Remove rubber upper coolant hose from the TIP hard line

Place towel under the other end of the same line. Slide clamp (blue box) up hose using pliers and remove rubber hose from hard line

Plug coolant line attached to TIP with finger while removing TIP so as to avoid further coolant spills

Remove OE TIP from car and set aside

Return coolant tank to it's original position to get it out of the way

Pop primary O2 sensor wire out of clip

Use Pliers to pinch loom clamp to free wires

Pinch clip and pull right on right side of connector as shown to disconnect wiring loom from sensor

Pinch tab of left side of connector at very end and bottom of plug to free it from the bracket

Use a 22mm specialty oxygen sensor socket to loosen the primary oxygen sensor

It need not be this exact socket

Use caution not to twist wires too much

By hand, remove O2 sensor from turbine housing

Remove three (3) bolts with 12mm socket and ratchet

Remove heat shield and set aside

Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the three (3) x bolts securing the upper heat shield to the factory downpipe

Remove OEM heat shield & set aside for later use

Undo the clip for the secondary O2 sensor plug and remove the plug

Remove the wire from the three (3) locating tabs for the secondary O2 sensor

These are three (3) metal tabs that hold the O2 sensor wire in place. By lightly bending them, the O2 sensor wire can be disconnected from the wire bracket

Using a ratchet with a 4" extension and a 10mm socket, remove the one (1) 10mm bolt securing the secondary O2 wiring bracket

Remove the bracket and set aside for later use

Civic shown. Integra is slightly different

Remove plastic portion of skid tray as follows:

Six (6) push clips from front

Use a flathead screwdriver or a prying tool

Using a screwdriver, remove metal portion of skid tray as follows:

Two (2) black philips head screws

Four (4) silver phillips head screws

Four (4) flat head screws

Remove the four (4) 14mm bolts securing the two lower downpipe support brackets

DO NOT discard the bolts. The four bolts will be reused

Using a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 14mm socket, remove all three (3) nuts securing the downpipe studs

The stud may come out of the downpipe with the nut. This is OK

Separate the front pipe from the downpipe, the front pipe will remain in place

Prior to attempting removal of the downpipe, liberally apply penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster, Deep Creep, etc.) on the downpipe nuts & bolts

Using the 3/8" drive 14mm socket and ratchet along with the aid of a breaker bar, remove the following from the turbine side of the turbocharger:

Two (2) 14mm bolts

Two (2) 14mm nuts

Be careful and take your time to avoid breaking a stud inside the turbine housing. Trust us, a broken stud is going to make this install a lot longer. It will require you remove the stud by removing the OEM turbocharger and sourcing new studs AND hardware from Honda

Pull the downpipe up out of the engine bay, being careful not to damage the wiring harness on the secondary oxygen sensor

Set aside downpipe for later reinstallation

Remove gasket from turbine housing. This will not be reused

Use 10mm socked and ratchet or Phillips screwdriver to remove clamp from FMIC Inlet hose

Slide inlet hose off turbocharger compressor cover

Stick a rag in the inlet hose as shown to keep coolant out of it and tuck inlet hose out of the way

Pinch rubber coolant line to prevent leak

Slide clamp up hose

Remove rubber coolant line from lower hard line on turbo

Use 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the oil feed banjo bolt

Stock Oil feed bolt is reused for GIN Journal Bearing (JB)

New oil feed bolt is supplied with GIN Ball Bearing (BB)

Use pliers to slide clamp down rubber oil return hose

Slide rubber hose off hard line

Use clean rag to wipe excess oil from oil drain hard line

Prior to attempting removal of the turbo, liberally apply penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster, Deep Creep, etc.) on the turbo nuts & bolts

Use 14mm wrench to break loose lower left bolt from turbine housing

Using the 3/8" drive 14mm socket and ratchet, along with the aid of a breaker bar if necessary, remove the following from the turbine housing of the turbocharger:

The remaining lower bolt

Two (2) upper nuts

Using 14mm socket, and breaker bar if needed, remove bolt and washer from turbo support bracket

Wiggle turbocharger as you rotate the assembly off the two studs remaining in the head

There is a hook on the lower support bracket that can make it difficult to remove the turbo assembly

Remove gasket. It will not be reused

Set OE turbocharger assembly on clean work surface to begin swapping parts

Set OE turbo and GIN turbo side by side

Remove both nuts from OE coolant hardline with 10mm socket and ratchet

OE gasket should come off with hardlines. This is reused

Install hardlines using OE hardware on GIN turbocharger. Torque to 9-11 ft-lbs

Remove both bolts from OE drain with 10mm socket and ratchet

OE gasket should come off with the drain line. This is reused

Install oil return using OE hardware on GIN turbocharger. Torque to 9-11 ft-lbs

Make sure to orient the drain line correctly

Install provided nipple using 8mm wrench until snug

Remove three (3) screws using T30 Torx bit from bypass valve (BPV)

Slide clamp (blue arrow) using pliers up rubber hose

Twist off rubber hose and remove BPV and vacuum hard line assembly from OE turbo

Wipe clean rubber gasket in BPV

Use extra caution to make sure BPV is oriented correctly or vacuum lines won't route correctly later

Install BPV on GIN turbo exactly like it was on OE turbo by tightening the three Torx screws evenly in a crisscross pattern

Connect vacuum line to nipple by sliding hose then clamp over nipple

Gather provided 13mm nut, a 12mm and 13mm wrench along with OE TIP flange nut

Tighten both nuts into each other as shown

Use 13mm wrench on inner provided nut to remove stud from compressor cover

Use 13mm wrench to tighten stud into same location on GIN turbocharger until snug

This is a good time to make sure BPV was installed correctly

Make sure vacuum lines are routed as shown

Pull pin from wastegate arm using pliers

Remove four (4) screws using T20 Torx bit from wastegate actuator (WGA)

Pull WGA to extend arm then pull arm off wastegate flapper arm

Swap assembly over to GIN turbo exactly like OE

You may need to compress WGA to get arm over pin on GIN.

Reinstall pin on wastegate arm

Reinstall four (4) screws using T20 Torx to snug

Install four (4) provided studs in turbine housing by hand, as shown

Hang provided gasket from studs as shown

Place turbo over studs as shown

Make sure to clear oil feed line

Turbine housing has to be on top of the support bracket to get the turbo on the studs

Following reverse of removal, hand thread two (2) OE nuts and two (2) OE bolts in their correct location as shown

Torque Nuts and Bolts using star pattern to distribute force evenly. Torque to 42-48 ft-lbs

Reinstall rubber oil drain hose to turbo drain line

Slide hose clamp into position using pliers

Locate the provided oil feed block fitting

Locate the OE oil feed tube. Use a small flat head screwdriver to remove the O-ring/screen from the OE oil feed tube

Be careful to not damage the O-ring during removal and installation

Install the O-ring/screen into the oil feed block fitting as shown

Locate the provided oil feed hard line and oil feed braided hose

Oil Feed Banjo Hard Line

Oil Feed Braided Hose

Attach the both ends of braided hose

Use a 12mm and 14mm wrench to tighten the braided hose. Hand tighten then use wrenches to tighten an extra 1/8 - 1/4 turn

Must use proper oil feed bolt. For Journal Bearing (JB) use OE bolt and provided crush washers

For Ball Bearing (BB) use provided bolt and provided crush washers

Seat banjo bolt with a crush washer on either side of oil feed banjo

Place the assembled oil feed line onto the turbo as shown

Install the oil feed banjo bolt and crush washers. There should be one crush washer on each side of the oil feed bolt connection

Route the oil feed block fitting and braided hose as shown

Hand tighten the oil feed banjo bolt into the turbo as shown

Verify that the upper and lower copper crush washers are on the oil feed banjo bolt

Locate the oil feed block connection location shown in the first image

The small protrusion is critical and must align with the hole on the side of the oil feed block fitting

Align the protrusion and the loop on the block fitting then install the OE 10mm bolt. Torque to 9-11 ft-lbs

Verify that the oil feed braided hose is not touching or rubbing any components

Use a 14mm socket and torque the oil feed banjo bolt to 12 ft-lbs

Do not over torque provided oil feed banjo bolt. It could break

If touching is occurring loosen the oil feed banjo bolt and adjust the position

Route coolant line through vacuum hard line as shown

Slide rubber coolant line over lower hard line

Using pliers, slide clamp over coolant line to secure in place

Slide rubber inlet hose onto turbocharger

Move clamp into position to secure inlet hose

Use 10mm socked and ratchet or Phillips screwdriver to tighten clamp

Attach the downpipe to the turbo using a 17mm socket and ratchet on the four (4) provided M10 crimp nuts. Torque to 42-48 ft-lbs

Using a ratchet with a 4" extension and a 10mm socket, reinstall the one (1) 10mm bolt securing the secondary O2 wiring bracket

Re-route the secondary O2 sensor wire harness back into the appropriate tabs, securing the black round spot in the tabs

Clip the secondary O2 sensor plug back into the harness

Reinstall the OEM upper heat shield using the three OEM bolts. Torque to 18 ft-lbs.

Using a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 14mm socket, reinstall all three (3) nuts securing the downpipe studs Torque to 40 ft-lbs.

Reinstall the four (4) 14mm bolts securing the two lower downpipe support brackets as shown Torque bolts to 33 ft-lbs

Reinstall the skid tray:

Six (6) push clips from front

Two (2) black philips head screws

Four (4) silver phillips head screws

Four (4) flat head screws

Reconnect three (3) bolts with 12mm socket and ratchet. Torque to 15-18 ft-lbs

By hand, reinstall O2 sensor into turbine housing

Use a 22mm specialty oxygen sensor socket to secure the primary oxygen sensor

Plug in primary O2 sensor as shown

Pop loom clip back into bracket as shown

Press loom back into clamp as shown

Place TIP back in car as shown

Slide rubber upper coolant hose over hard line

Slide hose clamp into position to secure upper coolant line

Remove clamp preventing leak from lower coolant hose

Reinstall crank breather hose using provided worm drive clamp as shown

Slide rubber coolant line onto hard line

Slide clamp in place to secure coolant line

Remove clamp preventing leak from upper coolant hose

Be careful not to damage A/C line

Wiggle OE TIP into position as shown

Reinstall both OE bolt and nut securing TIP to turbo with 12mm socket, 3" extension, and ratchet. Torque to 15-19 ft-lbs

Using 10mm socket and ratchet reconnect TIP to bracket near TIP inlet

Route rubber hoses as shown and insert them into the clips

Reinstall two (2) screws into Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP) with T30 Torx Bit to secure EVAP valve

Slide both rubber vacuum lines over hard lines

Slice clamps over rubber lines to secure

Use 10mm socket and both OE bolts to reattach OE vacuum hard lines to TIP

Plug in WGA

Reinstall both OE bolts into wiring loom with 10mm socket and ratchet

Put OE coolant tank back into original position in bracket

Reinstall accordion intake tube and tighten clamps with 5.5mm socket

Some smell may be present on the first start as any residue in the exhaust burns off. This is normal and will not happen after the 2nd or 3rd heat cycle

Check the engine coolant level in the reservoir for the next few days as the air in the cooling system works itself out. Refill as needed

To get the best performance from your GIN Turbocharger, we highly recommend a custom tune

A custom tune for your specific vehicle with your specific modifications will provide the best performance for your Civic/Integra and the location you live in

You’ll run higher boost with Gin than the OE turbo. That could result in a hose popping off due to the increased boost. Any hoses with clamps removed during install should be properly secured. CEL Code P2187 or P2101 is a clue this might have happened.

A vehicle equipped with a larger performance turbocharger may require a change in the way it is driven. A properly tuned vehicle with a larger turbocharger definitely will

A properly tuned vehicle with a larger turbocharger will experience peak torque later in the RPM range. This may make the vehicle feel more sluggish in the the lower RPM range, approximately sub 3000rpm. However, peak power will also move higher in the RPM range and carry to redline

We recommend shifting at a higher RPM (~400rpm higher) to combat this feeling

A larger performance turbocharger will also create more pronounced turbo induction noises, your gas mileage may drop significantly for the first few tanks from you constantly wanting to hear the turbo spool

This completes the installation of your 27WON Performance Turbocharger

We hope you were impressed with your 27WON experience and love your new turbo for years to come. Email us at sales@27won.com or call us at 571-271-0271 with any questions or concerns

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