L15-6-572/573 W2 and W3 Turbocharger

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Relocating your hood prop is necessary to run the W2 & W3 turbo, failure to do so will result in damage to your WGA

Locate the engine skidtray to gain access to the downpipe and front-pipe

Use 5mm Allen to remove the two (2) bolts shown in green circles

Use 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the seven (7) bolts shown in red circles

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the seventeen (17) plastic push-clips. Orange arrows identify the push-clips described in the next step (3)

Use large flat head screw driver to remove push-clips on each side of skidtray

Disconnect the wiring harness from the MAF Sensor

Remove the wire cover from the airbox

Use needle noise pliers to pinch the clips then pull the cover off the airbox

Use a 10mm socket, extension & ratchet to loosen the two (2) 10mm bolts

You can leave the bolts loose in position during airbox removal

Use a 5.5mm socket to loosen the hose clamp

A small phillips screwdriver can be used, but is not recommend because the hose clamp head strips easily

Pull the hose off the turbo inlet pipe in the direction of the arrow

With the hose loose, remove the entire airbox from the engine bay

The result will look as shown in the second image

Disconnect the O2 sensor wire as shown with red arrow

Use small pliers to remove the purple clip from the bracket

Pinch the back side of the purple clip and push through the bracket

Verify that the bracket and radiator hose are not hot. If hot allow the vehicle to cool before proceeding

Moving the radiator hose allows improved clearance for downpipe removal

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) 10mm bolts holding the lower radiator hose in place

With the bolts removed, move the radiator hose upward and forward

Apply a small amount of silicone spray to the end of the hanger rod (red arrow)

Use the tongue and groove pliers as shown to remove the rubber hanger

Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the three OE nuts

It is possible that the stud will thread out of the downpipe flange. This is not an issue, the stud can be threaded back into the flange like a bolt

Verify that the brackets and coolant hose are not hot. If hot allow the vehicle to cool before proceeding

Use a 14mm socket & ratchet or wrench to remove the four (4) 14mm bolts as shown in red circles in two images

Remove the brackets from the vehicle

Locate the secondary O2 sensor on the downpipe

Locate the specialty socket - 22mm or 7/8" O2 sensor socket

Use the ratchet wrench in the specialty socket to remove the O2 sensor

Going forward we will reference the black plastic pipe connected to the turbo as the "Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP)"

The following components are identified for clarity in the following steps

EVAP Bleed Air

Valve Cover Breather Hose

TIP Mounting Points

Waste Gate Actuator (WGA) Wiring Connection

By-Pass Valve (BPV) Hoses

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) 10mm bolts

Pull the EVAP bleed air out of the TIP and set to the side

Use pliers to loosen the spring clamps. Slide the clamps towards the center of the hose

Pull the hose off the valve cover first

Pull the hose off the TIP second

Disconnect the wiring from the Waste Gate Actuator (WGA)

Locate the wiring loom

Press down on the small tab and pull the wiring loom from the bracket in the direction of the yellow arrow

Move the wiring harness towards the rear of the car out of the way

Use pliers to loosen the spring clamps. Slide the spring clamps with red circles towards the center of the hose

Pull the BPV hoses off the metal tubes in the direction of the orange arrows

Use pliers to loosen the spring clamp. Slide the clamp towards the center of the of the hose

Pop the hose out of the plastic clip

Pull the hose off the plastic "T". Move the hose towards the front of the car out of the way

Some coolant may spill from the hose and "T" connection

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the bolt holding the "T" connection

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet or Phillips screwdriver to loosen the worm-gear clamp

Pull the hose off the TIP in the direction of the arrow

Remove the clamp from the hose so it does not get lost in the engine bay

Bend the hose towards the rear of the car. Stuff it into the fender liner out of the way

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) TIP mounting bolts

The next process is to remove the Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP) from the vehicle.

We will first identify the hardware location and how to remove without losing the hardware in the engine bay

Second, we will show step by step images of physically removing the TIP for PDF users and a quick video for mobile users

Locating the mounting hardware on the TIP can be difficult. Please see the second image for clear identification

The hardware circled in red are bolts. The hardware circled in orange is a nut on a stud

Use a 12mm socket, extension & ratchet to loosen the three (3) bolts

Use a 13mm socket, extension & ratchet to loosen one (1) nut

With the bolts loose, but not removed, use the magnet on a stick to remove the bolts from the TIP

Mobile Users proceed to Step 24 for video tutorial

Pull the oil dip stick out a couple inches and flex out of way

Move the TIP towards the passenger side of the vehicle past the oil dip stick

Reinstall the oil dip stick

Move the TIP further towards the passenger side of the vehicle and begin to rotate the top of the TIP towards the front of the vehicle

Continue the rotation of the TIP while moving the TIP up and out of the engine bay

Pull the oil dip stick out a couple inches and flex out of way

Move the TIP towards the passenger side of the vehicle past the oil dip stick

Reinstall the oil dip stick

Move the TIP further towards the passenger side of the vehicle and begin to rotate the top top of the TIP towards the front of the vehicle

Continue the rotation of the TIP while moving the TIP up and out of the engine bay

Verify that the heat shield is not hot. If hot allow the vehicle to cool before proceeding

Use a 12mm wrench to remove the three (3) 12mm bolts

Remove the heat shield from the engine bay

Pull the wire out of the bracket as shown with the red arrow

Disconnect the wiring circled in orange

Press a tab on the back of the wiring connection and pull down off the bracket as shown in second image

Use the O2 sensor socket and ratchet to remove the O2 sensor

Use a 10mm wrench to remove the two (2) 10mm bolts

Use a 12mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) 12mm bolts

Remove the heat shield from the turbo

Locate the wiring bracket to the driver's side of the turbo

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) 10mm bolts

Remove the bracket from the vehicle

It may be necessary to spray the studs/bolts with a penetrating lubricant before removal. Apply lubricant if needed and let sit for a few minutes then attempt removal

Use a 17mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) nuts and two (2) bolts

Move the downpipe off the studs towards the driver's side

Lower the downpipe straight down through the opening below

Vise grips/clamps can damage the hose if they set too tight. Setup the vise grips/clamp to squeeze the hose just enough to keep the coolant from leaking

Use small vise grips/clamp to pinch the upper coolant hose on the turbo in the area indicated by the red arrows

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) 10mm bolts that attach the oil drain tube to the bottom of the turbo, set the bolts aside as they will not be reused.

There is a small black metal gasket between the oil drain tube and the turbo. Do not loose or damage it, it will be reused

Use pliers to loosen the spring clamp. Slide the spring clamp down the rubber hose

Remove the oil drain tube from the vehicle

A small amount of oil may spill out of the drain tube upon removal

Use a 14mm socket & ratchet to remove the two (2) 14mm bolts holding the turbo support bracket

The two bolts are different lengths. The long bolt is used on the turbo and the short block is used on the engine block

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the one (1) 10mm bolt holding the lower portion of the oil feed tube

A small amount of oil may spill out of the oil feed tube upon removal

Vise grips/clamps can damage the hose if they are too tight. Setup the vise grips/clamp to squeeze the hose just enough to keep the coolant from leaking

Use small vise grips/clamp to pinch the lower coolant hose on the turbo in the area shown with red arrows

Use pliers to loosen the spring clamp. Slide the spring clamp towards the center of the rubber hose

Pull the rubber hose off the turbo coolant tube

Some coolant will spill out of the turbo and rubber hose upon removal

Use a 12mm socket, extension, & ratchet to remove the oil feed banjo bolt

Remove the entire oil feed tube and banjo bolt for the turbo

Use pliers to loosen the spring clamp. Slide the spring clamp up the rubber hose

Pull the rubber hose off the turbo tube

More coolant will spill out of the lower turbo coolant tube

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove two (2) 10mm nuts holding the bracket

Use a flat head screwdriver to open the plastic clip holding the rearward coolant hose, as shown in the third image

Lift the whole assembly up and set it on the valve cover out of the way

Use a 14mm socket, extension, & ratchet to remove the two (2) nuts and two (2) bolts holding the turbo to the engine

These nuts and bolts will be reused for installation

Mobile Users please proceed to the next step for a video tutorial

Pull the turbo off the studs in the engine block

Move the turbo slightly towards the passenger side of the vehicle

Raise the compressor side of the turbo up first then remove the whole turbo from the engine bay

Pull the turbo off the studs in the engine block

Move the turbo slightly towards the passenger side of the vehicle

Raise the compressor side of the turbo up first then remove the whole turbo from the engine bay

Carefully pry the 9 plastic clips open with a flat head screw driver

Clips are fragile and can easily break if to much force is applied

Relocating your hood prop is necessary to run the W2 and W3 turbo, failure to do so will result in damage to your WGA

Use needle nose pliers to squeeze the clip on the bottom of the hood bracket to remove the plastic clip. Set aside for reuse later

When drilling in the next step be mindful to not hit the coolant line that is clipped below, Unclip the coolant line and make sure it is out of the way

Cover up the engine, coolant system, and oil system before starting to drill (a big old towel would work good for this).

A vacuum is recommended to clean up metal chips

Use a 1/4" drill bit to drill out the 2 tac welds circled in red

If the bracket is still attached after drilling both welds then you can fatigue the bracket loose by bending it up and down a few times or try drilling the hole with a 5/16" drill bit

When done drilling cleanup all metal chips before removing towel, a shop vaccum is recommended for cleaning this up

When all metal chips have been cleaned up then you can remove the towel

Two (2) M6x20mm bolts and nuts are provided in case you wish to reinstall the hood prop

Use a 12mm wrench to remove the bolt holding the bracket shown

Set aside bracket and bolt as they will not be reused for installation

Do not touch this jam nut during this install

Remove the cotter pin from the turbo

This can fly off unexpectedly if not careful

Use a 3mm Allen to remove the four (4) socket caps screws holding the WGA

Remove the WGA from the OE turbo

Thread on the provided M8x1.25 nut onto the OEM stud in your OEM turbo, this is shown off the turbo for clarity

Thread on the OE flange jam nut onto the turbo stud on top of the M8 nut, this is shown off the turbo for clarity

Use a 13mm and 12mm wrench to tighten the two nuts into each other

Using the wrench on the lower nut, "un-thread" the nut. This should begin un-threading the stud from the OE compressor housing

Repeat this process in reverse to install the OE stud you just removed as well as the provided M8x35mm double ended stud into your turbo at holes circled in blue

Locate the provided Upper Coolant Pipe, M14 Banjo Bolt, and two (2) M14 Copper Crush Washers

Upper Coolant Pipe

M14 Coolant Banjo Bolt

M14 Copper Crush Washers

Assemble the upper coolant pipe as shown. There should be one crush washer on each side of the coolant pipe bolt connection

Install the upper coolant pipe on the turbo as shown. Torque to 32-36 ft-lbs

Warning improper connection or failure to follow torque specs could cause a coolant leak

Locate the provided Lower Coolant Pipe, M14 Banjo Bolt, and two (2) M14 Copper Crush Washers

Lower Coolant Pipe

M14 Coolant Banjo Bolt

M14 Copper Crush Washers

W2 & W3 come with the heat shield installed. It will need to be removed now

Remove the three bolts attaching the heat shield to the turbine housing using a 13mm socket

Set aside heat shield or now

Assemble the lower coolant pipe as shown. There should be one crush washer on each side of the coolant pipe bolt connection

Install the lower coolant pipe on the turbo as shown. Torque to 32-36 ft-lbs

Warning improper connection or failure to follow torque specs could cause a coolant leak

Locate the OE oil drain pipe and OE oil drain pipe gasket

Align the drain pipe flange and gasket with the holes on the underside of the turbo. Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench. Torque the two (2) provided M6 12mm long flanged bolts to 8-10 ft-lbs

Locate the provided turbine inlet gasket and install as shown

Install the Turbo onto the engine as shown in the reverse order of removal.

Use a 14mm socket and torque nuts and bolts to 42-48 ft-lbs

Locate the provided oil feed block fitting

Locate the OE oil feed tube. Use a small flat head screwdriver to remove the O-ring/screen from the OE oil feed tube

Be careful to not damage the O-ring during removal and installation

Install the O-ring/screen into the oil feed block fitting as shown

Locate the provided oil feed pipe and oil feed braided hose

Oil Feed Pipe

Oil Feed Braided Hose

Attach the oil feed pipe and oil feed braided hose

Use a 12mm and 14mm wrench to tighten the pipe and hose. Hand tighten then use wrenches to tighten an extra 1/8 - 1/4 turn

Locate the provided oil feed banjo bolt and two (2) M10 copper crush washers

M10 Oil Feed Banjo Bolt

M10 Copper Crush washers

Install the oil feed block fitting that has the O-ring screen installed. Hand tighten the oil feed block fitting, do not fully tighten yet

Install the oil feed banjo bolt and crush washers as shown. There should be one crush washer on each side of the oil feed bolt connection

Install the assembled oil feed line onto the turbo

Route the oil feed block fitting and braided hose as shown

Hand tighten the oil feed banjo bolt into the turbo as shown

Verify that the upper and lower copper crush washers are on the oil feed banjo bolt

Locate the oil feed block connection location shown in the first image, you removed the oil drain line from it earlier

The small protrusion on the engine is critical and must align with the hole on the side of the oil feed block fitting circled in red

Insert the fitting block onto the protrusion (red circle to red circle) and then align the hole on the block fitting with the hole in the engine (orange circle to orange circle), then install the OE 10mm bolt. Torque to 9-11 ft-lbs

Use a 12mm and 14mm wrench to tighten the block fitting and hose. Hand tighten then use wrenches to tighten an extra 1/8 - 1/4 turn

Use a 14mm socket and torque the oil feed banjo bolt to 12-14 ft-lbs

Verify that the oil feed braided hose is not touching or rubbing any components. If touching is occurring loosen the oil feed banjo bolt and adjust the position

Use pliers to remove the remaining spring clamp on the OE lower rubber coolant hose that is not installed on the engine currently. Install the spring clamp on the provided rubber coolant hose that is installed on the engine currently

Push the coolant hose onto the lower coolant pipe

Use pliers to install the spring clamp at the end of the hose over the coolant pipe

Do NOT remove the vise grips yet, or coolant will spill out of the turbo upper coolant pipe

Install the LONG 14mm bolt through the bracket into the turbo

Install the SHORT 14mm bolt through the bracket into the engine

Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench. Torque each to 38-42 ft-lbs

Use pliers to install the spring clamp at the end of the rubber hose around the oil drain pipe

Use a 13mm socket & torque wrench to install two (2) provided M8x10mm bolts and torque to 15-18 ft-lbs

Use a 13mm socket & torque wrench to install one (1) provided M8x8mm bolt and torque to 15-18 ft-lbs

You may need to flex the heat shield a bit to align the mounting holes

Install the WGA through the compressor housing and attach the WGA rod to the waste gate arm

Install the cotter pin

Verify that the WGA wiring connection is pointed up. Install the four (4) 3mm Allen socket cap screw and tighten to snug.

Do not over-tighten the 3mm Allen screws. Hand snug is sufficient

Use the specialty O2 sensor socket to install the primary O2 sensor. Torque to 30-33 ft-lbs

Install the upper coolant hard lines support bracket and shield that was removed. Use a 10mm socket & torque wrench to install the two (2) 10mm nuts and torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Push the rubber coolant hose onto the turbo upper coolant pipe

Use pliers to install the spring clamp at the end of the coolant hose around the upper coolant pipe

Reinstall the plastic clip holding the upper coolant hard lines and rubber hose

Remove the vise grips from the lower coolant hose

Locate the provided turbine outlet gasket, four (4) M10 studs, and four (4) M10 crimp nuts

The provided M10 studs have a short thread section and a long threaded section

The short section of threads will be threaded into the turbo

The long section of threads protrudes out of the turbo to support the downpipe

By hand, install the four (4) M10 studs into the turbo with the long section out

This step shown on bench for clarity

Install the turbine outlet gasket. There is only way it can be installed

Use a 17mm socket & torque wrench to install the four (4) M10 crimp nuts. Torque to 42-48 ft-lbs

Use a 10mm socket & torque wrench to install the two (2) 10mm bolts and bracket. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Use a 12mm wrench to install the three (3) 10mm OEM bolts and heat shield. Torque to 15-19 ft-lbs

Some aftermarket downpipes may not have the provision for this heat shield

Use the specialty O2 sensor socket to install the secondary O2 sensor. Torque to 30-33 ft-lbs

Install the secondary O2 sensor wiring harness onto the bracket

Install the primary O2 sensor wiring harness onto the bracket

Install the primary wire into the metal clip

Connect the primary sensor to the wiring harness as indicated by orange arrow

Install the purple clip on the secondary wire into the bracket

Connect the secondary sensor to the wiring harness as indicated by green arrow

Installation of the TIP follows the same process for removal in reverse

Lower the TIP into the engine bay with the TIP rotated towards the front of the car

Rotate and lower the TIP into the engine bay then move it towards the driver's side of the engine bay

Pull the oil dip stick out a couple inches and flex out of way

Move the TIP further to the driver's side while sliding the TIP over the stud in the compressor housing

Reinstall the oil dip stick

With the TIP loosely in position on the turbo, we will begin the most frustrating part of the entire installation

Using the Magnet on a Stick we can loosely thread the nut onto the stud and the bolts into the compressor housing without the risk of loosing the hardware in the engine bay

An installed TIP is shown out of the car for clarity

The two (2) red circles show the locations of the 12mm bolts

The orange circle shows the location of the two (2) 13 mm nuts and studs

Use the magnet on a stick tech tip shown earlier to first loosely install the bolts and nut

Tighten the hardware and torque to 15-19 ft-lbs

Use a 10mm socket & torque wrench to install the two (2) TIP mounting bolts. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Pull the hose out and reinstall the band clamp in the same orientation it came off

Push the hose onto the TIP in the direction of the arrow

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet or Phillips screwdriver to tighten the worm-gear clamp until snug

Use a 10mm socket to install the bolt holding the "T" connection. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Pop the hose into the plastic clip

Push the hose onto the plastic "T". Use pliers to install the spring clamp at the end of the coolant hose around the "T" connection

Push the BPV hoses onto the metal tubes in the direction of the red arrows

Use pliers to install the spring clamps onto the end of the hoses around the metal pipe

Install the wiring harness back onto the bracket

Reconnect the wiring harness to the WGA

Push the hose onto the TIP first, following the red arrow.

Push the hose onto the valve cover second

Use pliers to install the spring clamps onto the end of the hose

Use a 10mm socket & torque wrench to install the two (2) 10mm bolts. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Move the radiator hose back into the correct position so the bolt holes and bracket holes align

Use a 10mm socket & torque wrench to install the two (2) 10mm bolts holding the lower radiator hose in place. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

With a 12mm socket wrench remove the two (2) 12mm bolts

Locate the plastic hood prop clip from earlier and insert it into the square hole on the new hood prop bracket

You should hear a click when the hood prop clip is fully inserted, if you don't hear a click then you can insert your needle nose pliers between the clip prongs to bend them out to the locked position

Install the new hood prop bracket and reinstall the two (2) 12mm bolts, torque to 8-10 ft-lb

Reinstall radiator fan guard by inserting the 9 plastic clips and pressing down on them with your thumb

Use a 14mm socket or wrench to install the four (4) 14mm bolts and brackets. Torque to 38-42 ft-lbs

Use a 14mm socket & torque wrench to install the three (3) 14mm nuts/studs. Torque to 30-40 ft-lbs

Apply a small amount of silicone spray to the end of the hanger rod

Push the rubber hanger onto the hanger rod

Lower the airbox assembly into the engine bay

Install the induction hose onto the TIP

Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to install the two (2) 10mm bolts that hold the airbox assembly. Torque to 3-4 ft-lbs

Use a 5.5mm socket or phillps screwdriver to tighten the band clamp until snug

Install the wiring harness into the airbox

Reconnect the MAF sensor wiring

Using genuine Honda coolant, fill the coolant reservoir to MAX

Leave the cap off the coolant reservoir for first start and engine warm up

For the first engine start be on alert for any oil and coolant leaks. It is recommend to have a second person watching the engine bay for leaks on first start

Start the engine and inspect for leaks. Shut down immediately is a leak is found. Fix any leaks found

Some smell and faint smoke will be present on first start-up. This is normal and will not happen after the 2nd or 3rd heat cycle

Install the seventeen (17) plastic push-clips. Orange arrows identify the push-clips described in the next step

Use 10mm socket & torque wrench to install the seven (7) bolts shown in red circles. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Use 5mm Allen and torque wrench to install the two (2) bolts shown in green circles. Torque to 8-10 ft-lbs

Install the remaning six (6) push-clips on each side of the skidtray

Check the engine coolant level in the reservoir for the next few days as the air in the cooling system works itself out. Refill as needed

Some smell and faint smoke will be present on first start-up. This is normal and will not happen after the 2nd or 3rd heat cycle

To get the best performance from your W2/W3 Turbo, we highly recommend a custom tune

A custom tune for your specific vehicle with your specific modifications will provide the best performance for your Civic and the location you live in

Please see the next step for expectations for driving a performance turbo equipped vehicle

An upgraded clutch is required for peak performance use of the W2/W3 turbocharger

A vehicle equipped with a larger performance turbocharger may require a change in the way it is driven to get the full effect of it

A properly tuned vehicle with a larger turbocharger will experience peak torque later in the RPM range. This may make the vehicle feel more sluggish in the the lower RPM range, approximately sub 3000rpm. However, peak power will also move higher in the RPM range and carry to redline

We recommend shifting at a higher RPM to combat this feeling

W2: ~300rpm higher

W3: ~800rpm higher

A larger performance turbocharger will also create more pronounced turbo induction noises, your gas mileage may drop significantly for the first few tanks from you constantly wanting to hear the turbo spool

If at anytime you wish to remove your 27WON turbo and reinstall you OEM hood prop then this can be done using the provided hardware

Insert the two provided M6x 20mm bolts through the bracket and the radiator support. Thread the two provided M6 nuts onto the other end of the bolts

Place a 10mm wrench on the nut and a 10mm socket and ratchet on the bolt and torque the bolt to 8-10 Lb-ft

This completes the installation of your 27WON W2/W3 Performance Drop-In Turbo Kit

We hope you were impressed with your 27WON experience and love your new W2 Turbo for years to come. Email us at sales@27won.com or call us at 571-271-0271 with any questions or concerns

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