FK8-6-571 Kuro Turbo

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These instructions were written with a 2018 Honda Civic Type R

Unplug the MAF sensor by pushing down on the tab (red circle) on top of the wiring connector

Use needle nose pliers to loosen both OEM spring clamps and slide them up the hoses

Pull the Boost Feed and EVAP Dump hoses off the EVAP solenoid

Using the 5.5mm socket and ratchet, loosen the two OEM clamps securing the intake tube

Remove the valve cover breather pipe from the intake tube

This breather pipe is secured with a permanent OEM clamp. This clamp cannot be removed easily so the pipe will need to be pulled free without removing the clamp. This can be difficult the first time. This permanent clamp will be replaced with the provided regular hose clamp during re-installation

Remove the OEM intake tube from the vehicle

Undo upper oxygen sensor electrical pigtail and let loose out of the way

Use a10mm socket to remove the 5 bolts holding the engine cover

Remove the engine cover

Remove (2) 10mm bolts securing the hard water line to the inlet pipe and move out of the way

Remove (2) 10mm bolts securing lower hard water pipe

Undo 10 mm bolt on the inlet pipe as shown

There are 2 bolts holding this bracket. The lower one is well hidden (purple arrow)

Using ¼ inch ratchet, 10mm deep socket, and 3 inch extension, remove the 10mm bolt shown

Remove the lower 10mm bolt as shown

Unplug electrical pigtail of electronic wastegate

Unclip the vacuum hose from the clips on the vacuum line retainer bracket

Using needle nose pliers, undo the clamp as shown and free the silicone hose from the hardline

Follow the line down and find the lower clamp holding the hose

Undo the lower clamp and free the silicone hose from the receiver

Remove the silicone hose from the car and set aside

Turbo inlet pipe assembly is shown off the car here because the bolts are hard to see installed on vehicle

The (2) 10mm bolts are shown off the car to better demonstrate their location

Remove the Inlet Pipe by removing the (2) 10mm bolts shown above, a deep 10mm socket and ~3" extension work best here

Using a 22mm socket remove the upper oxygen sensor

Set the sensor out of the way

Jack up your car and secure it with jack stands as you will need to get underneath

Locate the engine undertray to gain access to the exhaust front-pipe

Take pictures or take a good look at how the under tray fits with the other under body shields to help with easier reinstallation

Use a 10mm socket & ratchet to remove the five 10mm bolts (red circles)

Use a 5mm Allen Key/Allen Socket to remove the two (2) Allen head bolts (orange circles)

Use a Flathead screwdriver or push clip removal tool to remove the 19 push clips from the under tray (yellow circles and arrows)

For clarity on the push clips on the sides of the under tray (labeled with the arrows) please proceed to the next step

The images in this step show the push clips on the side of the under tray. These are labeled with the arrows in the previous step

Passenger side shown, please repeat for the driver side before removing the under tray

Remove the engine under tray from the vehicle

Using a 12mm socket and ratchet, remove the (2) 12mm bolts from the upper part of the heat shield

It is very difficult to remove the lower bolt from the heat shield from the engine bay (shown off the car, orange arrow). We advise to remove this bolt from underneath the car

Using a 12mm wrench, remove the lower 12mm bolt from the heat shield

Unplug the lower oxygen sensor electrical pigtail connector located next to the upper oxygen sensor connector

Using a 14mm socket and a 14mm wrench , undo the (4) bolts for the downpipe brackets as shown

Remove both of the brackets and set them aside

Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the three nuts that connect the front-pipe to the downpipe

Pull the rubber hanger on the OE front-pipe free from the hanger rod on the chassis in the direction shown

Usually the studs will remain in the downpipe causing issues when removing the downpipe. Pry the downpipe from front pipe by sticking a screwdriver in between the downpipe and the forward pipe

There are 2 nuts and 2 bolts that mount the Downpipe to the Turbo. Soak them with Penetrating fluid prior to attempting removal

Break lose the (2) 14mm bolts (blue arrows) and the (2) 14mm nuts (red arrows)

Using a 14mm socket, remove the 2 nuts (red arrows)

Using a 14mm socket remove the 2 bolts (blue arrows) as shown

Remove the Downpipe from underneath the car

Undo the worm gear clamp with 10mm socket or screwdriver

Free the boost tube from compressor cover outlet

Undo the clamp from the hose as shown

Free the hose off the bung and set aside

Undo 14mm bolts holding support bracket in place

Remove the bracket and set it aside

Remove the10mm bolt holding the hard oil feed line as shown

On the top, remove the 14mm bolt holding the hard oil feed line as shown

Remove the oil feed line and set aside

Undo other end of the Oil Control Solenoid pigtail harness as shown

Remove the upper 10mm bolt holding the hardline next to the oil control solenoid pigtail electrical wiring clip unplugged in the previous step

Remove the lower 10mm bolt holding the hardline

Using Needle nose pliers, undo the clamp on the silicone section sitting just above the oil control solenoid electrical pigtail from the previous step. Free the hose from the hard line

There are two 14mm bolts and two 14mm nuts holding the Turbo to the Cylinder Head

Undo the (2) 14mm bolts on the turbo housing

Remove the (2) 14mm nuts as shown

Its advised to lean the turbo assembly as shown to facilitate the next steps

A small amount of water and coolant will spill out. Prepare the area with paper towels

Undo the clamp holding the upper hose to the hard line

Using vice grip pliers with tape on the teeth to protect the hose, clamp (top, right next to turbo) hose to minimize water spillage

Proceed to the next step to free the lower coolant line before the upper. This will minimize coolant loss

A small amount of water and coolant will spill out. Prepare the area with paper towels

Using needle nose pliers, move the clamp up the silicone hose as shown

Using a second pair of vice grip pliers with tape on the teeth, clamp (top, right next to turbo) hose to minimize water spillage

Free the hose off of turbo assembly

Pull upper coolant hose off of hard line

Remove the turbo assembly from the car and place on a workbench

Remove the (2)12mm bolts for the compressor cover outlet pipe

Remove the compressor cover outlet pipe and set aside

Remove the (2) 10mm nuts for the hard water lines and set them aside

Remove the hard water lines and set aside

For reinstall, a new OEM gasket may be needed (not included). Set aside existing gasket if you decide to reuse it

If you decide you need a new gasket, OEM part number: (19524-RPY-G01)

Loosen the clamps holding the vacuum hoses to turbo housing

Free the vacuum hoses from the nipple

Remove the (2) 10mm bolts for the oil return hard pipe

Remove the oil return hard pipe and set aside

Remove the (3) 10mm bolts for the bypass valve

Set the Bypass Valve aside

Using a 3mm Allen Key socket, remove the (4) 3mm Allen head bolts for the Electronic Wastegate

Using a pair of pliers, remove the retainer clip for the Electronic Wastegate

Unhook the flapper arm from the turbo and remove the Electronic Wastegate

Set the OE turbo aside

Set your new 27WON turbo on your workbench

Locate the small silver vacuum barb in your hardware packet

Thread by hand the barb into the area circled in green

Thread until flush with compressor cover

Position the Bypass valve as shown

Reinstall the OE (3) 10mm bolts. Torque to 9 ft-lb

Position the Electronic Wastegate as shown

Reinstall the (4) OE 3mm Allen head bolts

Re-hook the Electronic Wastegate Flapper Arm

Re-insert the retainer clip for the Electronic Wastegate Tail as shown

Position the gasket for the Hard Water Lines as shown

Re-install the Hard Water Lines with the OE (2) 10mm nuts. Torque to 9 ft-lb

Position the provided gasket for the Oil Return as shown

Reinstall the Oil Return Hard Pipe using the (2) OEM 10mm bolts as shown. Torque to 12 lb-ft

Install the provided silicone vacuum hoses onto the turbo

The shorter 5mm hose will go over your bypass nipple

The longer 4mm hose will go over the nipple on your compressor cover

Reinstall the retaining clamps where indicated

Position the Compressor Cover Outlet Pipe as shown

Reinstall the (2) OE 12mm bolts and secure the pipe. Torque to 33 lb-ft

Thread the provided screws for the inlet face on to the turbo as shown

Ensure that the smaller thread section of the screws is exposed completely

DO NOT thread all the way. Leave the thread change section flush with inlet face as shown

Install the provided turbo manifold gasket as shown

Insert the Turbo Assembly into the car as shown to facilitate the next steps

DO NOT bolt the assembly to the head. Allow the assembly to be loose in order to connect the various lines

Note: This is on the left (passenger side for USA) of the turbo

Reconnect the coolant hose

Reinstall the hose clamp as shown

Do not remove the vice grip pliers from the coolant hose until after next step to avoid spillage

Reconnect the coolant hose to the hard line

Reinstall the clamp as shown

Remove the vice grip pliers from both this upper hose and the lower hose from the previous step

Note: This step follows the same hardline/ silicone hose bundle. Moving from the lower point of the bundle to the connection to the hardline

Reinstall the 10mm bolt to the upper hardline mounting bracket. Torque to 9.8 ft-lb

Reinstall the 10mm bolt to the lower hardline mounting bracket. Torque to 9.8 ft-lb

Connect the silicone ends to the hardlines and reinstall the hose clamps were indicated

Align the holes of the turbine housing to the upper studs of the cylinder head

It is highly recommended to use anti-seize on these nuts and bolts

Reinstall the (2) OE 14mm bolts in the bottom holes as shown. Torque to 44 ft-lb

Reinstall the (2) OE 14mm nuts on the studs. Torque to 44 ft-lb

Route the oil feed line and using the OE 14mm bolt, reinstall as shown. Torque to 21 ft-lb

Reconnect the bottom side of the oil feed line using the OE 10mm bolt. Torque to 9 ft-lb

Reinstall Oil Return Hose back on to the bung

Secure the clamp as shown

Position the Turbo Support Bracket as shown

Reinstall the (2) 14mm bolts. Torque to 30 ft-lb

Reconnect the boost tube as shown

Make sure to align the yellow line with the arrow on the boost tube

Secure the worm clamp on the boost tube using either a screwdriver or a 10mm socket

Thread the (4) provided studs into the marked locations

Shown with nuts installed, don't install nuts yet

Place provided gasket as shown

Shown without studs installed in previous step

Reinstall the downpipe onto the turbo over provided studs

Thread the (4) provided nuts onto the studs with anti-seize. Torque to 40 ft-lb

OEM downpipe shown, aftermarket downpipes may vary

Reconnect the lower oxygen sensor electrical pigtail as shown

Align the downpipe with the front pipe and reinstall the (3) OE 14mm nuts. Torque to 30-40 ft-lb

Reinstall the exhaust hanger for the front pipe

Align the left side bracket and reinstall the (2) OE 14mm bolts with anti-seize. Torque to 30-40 ft-lbs

Align the right side bracket and reinstall the (2) OE 14mm bolts with anti-seize. Torque to 30-40 ft-lbs

Install the (2) 12mm bolts from the upper part of the heat shield

It is very difficult to install the lowest bolt from the heat shield from above (as shown off the car). We advise to install this bolt from underneath

Install the lower 12mm bolt from the heat shield

Reminder: The turbo compressor cover has M8/M6 studs already installed. Nuts are provided to attach turbo inlet pipe to compressor cover

To demonstrate the location of the mounting screws, the turbo inlet pipe is shown off the car

Use the provided (2) 10mm nuts to secure turbo inlet pipe to turbo

For Eventuri Turbo Inlet Pipe users: Use the Eventuri provided hardware. Slight modification to your Eventuri coupler may be necessary

Reinstall the (2) OE 10mm bolts to mount the top hard line to the intake pipe

Reinstall the (2) OE 10mm bolts to mount the bottom hard line to the intake pipe

Reinstall the OE 10mm bolt to mount the intake pipe as shown

There are 2 bolts holding this bracket. The lower one is well hidden (purple arrow)

Using the OE 10mm bolt reinstall the upper part of the vacuum line bracket as shown

Using the OE 10mm bolt reinstall the lower part of the vacuum line bracket as shown

Plug elect pigtail of electronic wastegate

Follow the wire up and reconnect the other end of the electrical harness as shown

Reinstall the upper oxygen sensor using the 22mm oxygen socket. Torque to 30 ft-lbs

Reconnect wiring harness for upper oxygen sensor

Reinstall the intake tube as shown and secure the clamps with a 5.5mm socket

Secure the hard pipe with the provided 14-27mm hose clamp as shown

OE Clamp is shown and cannot be reused

Use needle nose pliers to clamp the OEM spring clamps for the EVAP silicon Boost feed and EVAP dump hoses

Use a 10mm socket and install the 5 bolts to hold the engine cover

Lift the under tray into position

Reinstall the five 10mm bolts with a 10mm socket & torque wrench. Torque to 6-8 lb-ft

Reinstall the two 5mm socket flange bolts with the 5mm Allen key & torque wrench. Torque to 6-8 lb-ft

Reinstall the 19 push clips at the bottom of the undertray and the sides

For clarity on the push clips on the sides of the under tray (labeled with the arrows) please see the next step

The images in this step show the push clips on the side of the under tray. These are labeled with the arrows in the previous step

Please be aware that some coolant has been removed from your car. It is HIGHLY ADIVISED to refill the coolant reservoir with new coolant

Leave the radiator cap off the coolant tank for 5 minutes while the car warms to bleed air out of the system. Fill tank with coolant as needed to reach correct level on the fill line

Reinstall cap once done bleeding air out

Check the engine coolant level in the reservoir for the next few days as the air in the cooling system works itself out. Refill as needed

Some smell and faint smoke can be present on first start-up. This is normal and will not happen after the 2nd or 3rd heat cycle.

To get the best performance from your Kuro Turbo, we highly recommend a custom tune

A custom tune for your specific vehicle with your specific modifications will provide the best performance for your Civic and the location you live in

Please see the next step for expectations for driving a performance turbo equipped vehicle

Check T-bolt clamp after around 1,000 miles to make sure it's not loose

If it's loose the clamp may rotate

If it's loose the compressor cover may wiggle or rotate

If clamp is found to be loose then rotate it around until you can access the nut

This can be done without removing the heat shield or taking the turbo out of the car

Tighten the nut to 62 lbs-in (7 N-m) with a torque wrench, extension, and 10mm socket

A vehicle equipped with a larger performance turbocharger may require a change in the way it is driven. A properly tuned vehicle with a larger turbocharger definitely will

A properly tuned vehicle with a larger turbocharger will experience peak torque later in the RPM range. This may make the vehicle feel more sluggish in the the lower RPM range, approximately sub 3000rpm. However, peak power will also move higher in the RPM range and carry to redline

We recommend shifting at a higher RPM (~300rpm higher) to combat this feeling

A larger performance turbocharger will also create more pronounced turbo induction noises, your gas mileage may drop significantly for the first few tanks from you constantly wanting to hear the turbo spool

This completes the installation of your 27WON Performance FK8 Kuro Turbo

We hope you were impressed with your 27WON experience and love your new Kuro Turbo for years to come. Email us at sales@27won.com or call us at 571-271-0271 with any questions or concerns

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